Friday Night Fun

One of my favorite  pubs on O'Connell St. was hosting a traditional Irish band on Friday night.   There were 4 musicians, one on violin, one on guitar, one on drum and one playing the Irish pipes.  The pipes are different than bag pipes in that they sit on the lap and are not as shrill.   The music was really good.   I went to Therese and we met a really nice family from Davis Ca.  They were taking a family vacation of about a month, travelling in Scotland and Ireland with their 3 sons.   One had just graduated college, one starting his junior year and the oldest graduated 4 years ago and lived in China teaching English for 2 years.   They were great to chat with. 

Norwegian Choir

We had a whisky instead of beer and it was quite tasty.   The highlight of the night was a visiting choir from Norway.   They were on tour and had sung at St. Patricks earlier in the day and were singing at Mass on Sunday at St. Mary's Pro Cathedral .   They were really having a good time and wanted to sing.  They got the band to play a popular song, No Never No More, about a man who roams the country looking for a good time and decides to come home and settle down.    2 of the Norwegian men knew the song really well which is funny because they didn't speak much English at all.   The group of men then went on to sing a fold song of their own about a young man's wedding and well, they just kind of took over.   Next thing we knew, the band wasn't playing and a choir concert broke out.  After 4 songs the manger George got control back, but not before they had him in the mix too.   It was a lot of fun.  

Tara and Bru na Boinne

On Friday we had a field trip to see the Hills of Tara, the site of the High Kings of Ireland and Bru na Boinne, a 800bc Neolithic site with a stone passage tomb.   Both places were south of Dublin in the very green and beautiful Boyne Valley.   The Boyne Valley is important in Irish history as the sight of one of the battles between the British soldiers and Irish freedom fighters in the 1870's.   

The Stone of Destiny

 Tara was the home of the High King, selected by the Kings and chieftains.   142 Kings were crowned at Tara and the coronation stone is known as the stone of destiny.  It is said to sing out when a royal touches it.  Alas, it was silent for me.    From Tara on a clear day you can see over half of Ireland.  It is on a hill top.  There are earthen rings around the hill top that form ripples much like ripples on a pond.   At one time a group of Israelites were certain that the ark of the covenant was buried there and spent a great deal of time digging up the place in the 1800's.  They never found anything. 

No singing stone, guess I'm not royalty.

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The old Church at Tara

   There is also an old church on site and cemetery dating back to the 1700's.    A statue of St.  Patrick is near the church.  St. Patrick explained the Trinity to the Irish here at Tara using the clover.  Walking the path back down to the bus I thought about all the generations of people who had walked this hill before me.

Next we travelled a short way to Bru na Boinne (in Irish) or the Newgrange site.   This site is over 5000 years old.   It was a Neolithic site of spiritual importance to the people who lived here.   They created a passage tomb, which is a large stone building, faced in rock from 70 kilometers to the west and 50 kilometers to the south.   The exterior facade sites on huge foundation stones quarried from somewhere down the river.  These stones were brought in by boat and then log rolled up the mountain.   It is estimated that the site took 50 years to build which would have been over 3 generations.   The tomb has a center room, with a spiral roof of overlapping stones.  The roof has never leaked in over 5000 years.  (The same can not be said for the visitor center built 10 years ago.)  There are about 50 of these sites in Ireland.  A few more are under excavation.   On the winter solstice, the sun rises and fills the chamber at the farthest point, illuminating a basin used to hold cremains.   There are 3 basins inside. The tomb passage has been known and visited since 1622.   Exactly what the purpose was they don't know and they only found about the winter solstice is 1967 almost by accident during the exterior reconstruction.

Exterior View.  Large grey stones at foundation are also carved

Inside the tomb is very narrow and short.  Not a place to be if you are at all claustrophobic!.  They let 24 people in at a time and it is quite overwhelming.   Being inside was one of the more humbling experiences I have had.  To touch the stone walls where people walked so long ago was deeply moving.   I also had a whole new appreciation for light and air when I exited..

The Weekend - Galway, the Burren, Cliffs of Moher and Inis Mor

Dunguire Castle 

It has been a whirlwind of a trip so far.  This past weekend was an example.   Friday night I attended a concert at Christ Church Cathedral by the Irish Baroque Orchestra.  They were wonderful.   Then got up early Sat. am for our trip to Galway, the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren and the Aran Island of Inis Mor.    It was an exhausting time but the country is beautiful!   I am in the process of getting an online photo album set up.  The first week is online and available at https://picasaweb.google.com/DianneKavanagh/Ireland2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKwqfPR3oPd_wE   The travel weekend will be forth coming but I'll include a few shots here.

The biggest issue of the weekend was a stay at a hostel in Galway which was not well communicated that we would be 6-8 per room, mixed sexes with who ever happened to be staying there.   Not what I had in mind at all, not to mention that half the stuff you have to bring with you like towels, and a lock for your suitcase.   It ended well but it was quite an experience.   Not sure it's my way of travelling at all.  


Work and classes are keeping me busy as you can tell from my lack of posting.   This is a 4 day weekend for us, we have Friday off from the internships and Monday is a bank holiday.  We head to Newgrange on Friday, a neolithic side older than Stonehenge.  Then have the weekend free. 

On Inis Mor

The Cliffs of Moher

The Burren

View from the McCoole Farm  in the Burren

Kevin McDunnah and Charlie - our Inis Mor transportation

A week in Dublin

Kilmainham Gaol

It is hard to believe I have been a here a week.   I have settled in to a somewhat warped pattern.  Sleep is not coming as easily as at home.   I am up until 1 or 2 and then up at 7.   This will catch up to me I am sure. But, so far we have had a good time.   I have been to Kilmainham Gaol, an 18th century  prison that held most of Ireland's political prisoners in the last 200 years.  It was a cold, bleak place.   The treatment was terrible.   We walked from the Gaol to the Guinness storehouse and tour which definitely was needed to lift the spirits after Kilmainham.   I must say that I have never been a fan of Guinness but I find that it is totally different over here.  It is not bitter at all and is in fact almost creamy.   The Gravity bar at the top of the Guinness storehouse had incredible 360 degree view of Dublin.   Worth the price of admission (which came with a pint to enjoy the scenery with).

Bell tower at Trinity College

We also visited Trinity College and had a chance to see the Book of Kells.  It is pretty fascinating to think of the work done by the monks in 800 AD.  The book is quite remarkable.  The details are astounding.  They change the page every 3 months now, so don't know if I'll get to see another folio, but saw the opening of St. Mathew's Gospel.
Did some walking (ok, a lot of walking) this week and ventured into some side streets.   There is a pub on every corner if not more than one but I have been good and limiting myself to one pint a day so far.
Sunday I went to St. Patricks for Evensong.  Well at least that is where I was headed.   I couldn't find the right street, then I heard the bells.  I just followed the bells, figuring that they would lead me to the right place.   Well I got close.  Christ Church Cathedral has a Sunday afternoon Evensong too and that was where the bells led.   It was good to hear some (almost) familiar liturgy. The crypt is very cool at Christ Church.  They have held services on that spot for 1000 years.

Christ Church Cathedral

Tiles in main aisle at Christ Church

Lunch spot Sunday - ONeills Pub

Did the typical tourist thing and got the on the right bus headed in the wrong direction on Sunday and didn't get back to the flat until 9.   I was behind on homework so spent the next 5 hours trying to get the assignment done and have just now finished the latest set.   Still have more to go for Thurs.    It's like these professors don't realize that this is suppose to be less work than being at work.   I'll have to have a chat with them both.  Things are going well so far and I am looking forward to a good 2nd week.

Dublin City Centre

Davy Byrnes' Pub

Today was a travel near day.   We had a 3.5 hour orientation at Dublin City University first thing, then paid for our trip next weekend to the Cliffs of Mohor and Aran Island.  Right after orientation we bought our student bus passes (I know, but it was 40 Euros cheaper).   Found out later that I need to go get another id card from here that proves I'm a student, my ASU card isn't good enough and it's a 50E fine if I get caught without it, so I'll be heading back to the University tomorrow.    But back to my story,

Cheese shop

Michelle, Terese and I took off to find the right bus to get to the city centre.   After initially being on the wrong side of the street (darn this left hand drive stuff) we got the right bus and took it into town. The downtown centre is a pedestrian only place which is really nice.  It is right off of Trinity College and St. Stephen's Green and very old world and lovely.  Lots of shops and some interesting restaurants and pubs.  We found a great spot for lunch, Davy Byrnes Pub.   One of the people most responsible for Irish Independence, Michael Collins used this pub as a safe house to meet in.    So we ordered our lunch of soup and a half a toastie (panini sandwich) with our pints.  

Then we wandered around town looking for a few items left at home.  One of the cool shops was the cheese shop and it was smelly and awesome!   Terese bought some Irish Cheddar for snacks later.   We took the bus back to the housing units and realized we had been gone for 12 hours.   It was a long time out walking but lots of good sites.

Tomorrow we are off to the Kilmainham Gaol, site of much Irish history and some chilling tales.   I checked the bus schedule and am thinking they could use a few pointers from my friend Dan at work has does a great job of getting the transit times out there.  Not sure if it will take me 23 minutes or 65 minutes to get there so will leave early for our 11:30 appointment.   Just need to make sure I get that 2nd ID card first!

Shanowen Square

An Irish Breakfast

Today started with a smart Irish breakfast.   The best part about tea over here is that it tastes like tea and not coffee water.   The scone however was a bit dry but the bacon or rashers as they call it made up for it.  Very good.   Stewed apricots are very tasty too.   I did skip the broiled tomatoes, baked beans and the black and white puddings however.
  

Dublin City University 

Left the hotel at 11:00 for a short cab fare to the student housing location.   The cab driver told me which pub in the neighborhood to stay out of which is always good to know.     Got my room assignment and found out I am on the 3rd floor in a suite.    Glad I wasn't on the ground floor but my 20 pound backpack and 50 pound suitcase were a trial up 2 flights.     Key locks work backwards here so when you think you have unlocked the door, it is actually deadbolted.   Locked my suite mate in while I was trying to open the front door.    Eventually we figured it out.     Met up with other ASU students for a neighborhood walk at noon and found this cool building on the University campus.   Took a longer walk to the shopping center and bought a few things for the fridge.   I had brought my shopping bag to carry back but think I'll take my backpack next time.  Water gets heavy!

I've met all 3 of my suite mates.  One young student (21ish) - Allie - from University of Michigan.   The other two are the over 40 women from ASU - Michelle and Terese.   I had met them both on previous trips to ASU and we agreed to try to room together.  Works well for us but poor Allie is in the old people.  We'll have to make it work for her which I'm sure we can do.    Michelle arrived about 3:30 and missed the walk so she and I set out to find something for dinner.  Found the local pub doesn't serve food so we had a quick pint and set off again.   Found a chicken takeout place not too far and brought dinner back.  We are settling in and  have orientation in the morning so need to get to sleep but need the sun to go down.  It's 10:00 and still light out.    By June 1 it will be light at 11:00.    Tomorrow will be another adventure day and will find out more about my internship.   I hope to discover it won't be as bad as I think but I may have to ask for a change if it goes how I think it will.  May even have to venture out to the city center on the bus!   So until then, Slán go fóill (Goodbye for now)

Day 1

I made it, I am in Dublin.  It has been a full, long day of travel.  I left Fremont 24 hours ago.   It is hard to believe that it was that long ago.    Travel is interesting in that it totally takes you out of what you know.  First up - Virgin Atlantic.  Now each time I have traveled to Europe in the past, I have flown KLM or Lufthansa.  This was my first trip with Virgin (yeah, I know, a Virgin virgin, ha).   It started off well to learn that Premium Economy came with it's own express check in to be followed by a cute little "Priority #1" stamp on my boarding card that let me be one of those people I deplore at the airport security line.  The ones that have their own special, short line and just zip through.   Yup, that was me, SCORE!    Same went for the actual boarding.   We had our own line with the upper class people only they got to turn left at the on-board bar, we had to turn right.      No sooner did I get to my seat than I was asked if I cared for a beverage.   A tray was held out with sparkling wine and juices.   I hadn't even sat down.

Heathrow Habitrails

Over the course of the next 90 minutes, the flight crew offered pre-meal cocktails, wine with dinner and either Baileys or a brandy for the after meal sip.  All complimentary.   Wow, the Dutch and German's never offered free liquor.   My guess is it was to try to get as many people as possible to sleep as quickly as possible.

Landed in London without any trauma and made my way through the funniest human hamster habitrails I have been in.  Little glass tubes everywhere, long passages that cross back on themselves that have cross-roads that will stop you in your tube to let a crossing tube by.  Very strange.

Aer Lingus Shamrock

Anyway,   had a quick lunch at the Giraffe, a world foods spot in Terminal 1.   An interesting thing I noticed was that there are a lot of single women travellers these days.  It was kind of cool to see.

Shorty partitions and you can
 SEE the old storage lockers

Made my way eventually to gate 80 - a long way from the central hub in Terminal1 by the way - down more hamster trails to the gate for Aer Lingus.    Boarded and realized I was sitting in a circa 1972 737 or some such other cast off from 40 years ago.  Yikes!   Talk about no-frills, water was a charge and not so much as a bag of pretzels either.   The engines whined the whole trip and not at an even clip either.    I am a nervous flyer to begin with so I think I've decided that if Aer Lingus is the top airline leaving Dublin I don't want to try RyanAir or Go.

Finally made it to the hotel and settled in.    I did go down to the cafe and have a light dinner and to celebrate Mother's Day I ordered a half pint of my mom's favorite ale - Smithwicks and raised a Mother's Day toast to her.   I found a great Mother's Day card in my suitcase from Scott too.  He sneaked it in before I left since I would be gone Sunday.

Tomorrow it's off to student housing and meeting up with the class.